Why not just remove the corrector plate and do it correctly? There will be an
index mark (put there either by Meade or by you before you remove the plate) and
it's no big deal. The collimination will be totally off anyway so why not do it
the easy way. In addition, I've found that the screws will bind on the way out,
and may (I wasn't trying to actually remove them but was rather trying to get
back into collimination after having the secondary recoated) actually not be
removable one at a time (i.e. if the other two are not also back out so that the
secondary remains relatively parallel to the secondary housing and the screws
don't bind.)

FWIW. regards, Brian






cc:

Subject: Re: [M]: Re: Thumb Screws for Collimation (again)



At 08:45 PM 02/12/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Thanks to Joe, Philip, Rob and Shay for the replies. Some noted that, yes
>indeed, I need the long ones, 6/32 x 3.25" it seems.
>
>So, I guess my next question is this -- has anyone replaced the
>collimation screws on the f/6.3, the long ones? Can they be unscrewed and
>replaced one at a time?
>
>In the discussion on replacing these, I didn't note if all participants
>had the f/10 with 1/2" screws or if anyone's replaced the long ones. In
>short, I don't wanna be the guinea pig... ;)
>
>Thanks,
>Tom Wideman
>Grapevine, TX

Go for it. The worst that can happen is that the whole secondary assembly
falls onto the primary mirror. Seriously though, one screw at a time
SHOULD? be okay.



Santa is taking orders for LX200 joysticks {:-^))
CANADA <http://www.worldchat.com/commercial/skyoptics/Joystick.html>
USA <http://www.scopetronix.com>

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