I have removed the corrector plate several times and it is relatively easy.
Just be sure that you line up the factory indexing marks (which look like
three lines, the two outer are black and the inner is white) on both the
corrector plate and the OTA. While you are removing the flakes, think about
purchasing some flocking material(I use synthetic black acrylic 12"*18" from
Michael craft for only 79 cents per sheet.) It took one and a half to do
the inside of my 8" LX200 and would probably not require more than three to
do your ten inch. When you remove the corrector, be sure your working
environment is very clean and do not touch the inside of the corrector. You
don't want to have to clean it if it can be prevented.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2001 1:47 AM
Subject: [M]: First Light, 10" F10 LX200


> Well shucks....
>
> I broke down and traided my 8" LX-50 for a 10 " LX-200 today. OPT gave me
a
> good deal on everything, so it was worth the 9 hour round trip drive.
Even
> in my tank that only gets 9 MPG...lol
>
> Well, I tossed the scope up on the SuperWedge mounted on my concrete pier
in
> the front yard. Walked through the polar alignment in the book, selected
> Mars and hit GOTO. Smack dab in the middle of the EP. To Cool! What
have
> I been missing!?!?
>
> Over to M57...right there again!
>
> Now a problem....there seems to be a couple pieces of aluminium chips in
the
> tube, I can see them kind of setting on the side of the tube when looking
> through the corrector plate. They are not on the optics yet, but I think
if
> I leave them in there they may end up on the optics eventually. I could
> return the scope, or I could send the scope to Meade, but how hard is it
to
> remove the corrector plate and get at these things myself? Anyone done
this
> before?
>
> TIA
> Darrell
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>
>
>

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